This knock can happen to any Rockshox Monarch. Let me show you what’s going on.
This is a simple little part that I came up with for those people that ended up with a steerer tube slightly too short for whatever reason. Here it is.
Some of the Monarch RT3’s come with a reasonably stiff lockout when new but a lot of them don’t stay that way for long. Here’s why that happens and what can be done about it.
I don’t care to post about things that people have seen before. I also don’t care to discuss something that’s already well understood. It’s been a few years now and I’ve seen the reliability issues regarding the Rockshox Reverb be misunderstood more times by more people than any other product so that’s why I’m going to talk about it.
There are several key quirks about the Rockshox Reverb that need to be addressed. Unfortunately using the readily available service kit doesn’t do much to solve the issues surrounding it. It should be said that this is a really cool design if you look at it objectively and the nagging issues it has are relatively easy to solve. So let’s clear things up.
Ever had a hydraulic brake lever that just won’t pop back? Mountain bike brake companies did something smart with their master cylinder pistons to avoid scoring the aluminum master cylinder bore. They made their pistons out of plastic. The one downside of the master cylinder piston being made from plastic is that plastic can absorb fluid and swell. Despite polymer suppliers claiming that their material is ‘dimensionally stable’, the real truth is that over time, it can absorb a little bit of fluid and grow slightly. So what does that cause? It means that one day there may come a point where you pull your brake lever in and it doesn’t come back out on it’s own because the now swollen master cylinder piston is stuck inside the master cylinder bore.
Sometimes that brake squeal is your fault. You were an idiot and you used some spray lube on your chain and the overspray touched your rotor. Or worse, maybe you religiously clean your bike with a silicone based bike polish and the overspray touched your rotors. If that’s the case then I’d suggest acknowledging that you may have OCD and go seek professional help. But that’s not what this article is about. There’s lot of information online about torching your pads and rotors to get rid of the bullshit you got on there. This article is about solving that brake squeal when it isn’t your fault.
A customer came to me with a problem. He was a big boy (over 220 pounds) and he was complaining about a harsh topout in his Magura Thor fork. This was a common problem with this particular air spring system. Many people have sent their forks back Magura to get fixed, only to have the same problem return some months later. The system Magura employs is really similar to a Fox Talas cartridge. It’s a travel adjustable air cartridge and like the Fox, it really isn’t known to be reliable, especially under heavier riders that require high pressures. So what’s the solution? A regular non adjustable air cartridge? That was an option definitely on the table but I don’t like air cartridges at all for heavy riders. You have to either have a self equalizing air spring to get the right negative air pressure or a coil negative spring. It’s all doable but heavy riders always mean high pressures and it makes for some highly stressed o-ring seals. Coil is always the most reliable. Perfect, I had a good old Fox Vanilla coil assembly ready for modification. Here it is beside the original travel adjustable air spring below.
We’ve all seen offset shock bushes like the ones made by Burgtec, the folks at offsetbushings.com and that one Polish guy’s company called Proshox. Those offset bushings work great if what you’re looking for is just a small geometry tweak in your frame. They’ll make your shock’s effective eye to eye length about 5mm shorter, which can slightly lower your bottom bracket and kick your head angle out a maximum of 1.5 degrees, but probably more like 1 degree for most setups.
A customer came to me with a tall order. He owned the most basic adult tricycle you could possibly get. Keep in mind that stock, these trikes are driven only by one of the rear wheels (the other wheel just spins freely) and are stopped by a stupid band brake that ONLY works on the driven wheel.
For years Intense Cycles has always had the latest and most progressive frame geometry. Most of their bikes ride great but so many of them had the stupidest quality control and design issues. We’re talking frames that get shipped with water bottle mounts completely missing. Like straight up empty holes in the frame. Frames with rear triangles that are completely misaligned. I mean like the wheel sits visibly crooked in the frame. And it’s not just a few of them that got shipped this way, I mean like up to half of them got sent this way and had to get sent back. Anyway, in this post I tackle a stupid design issue. Let’s see what went wrong.